Fort Worth Paver Installation-Things to Know

Installing Brick Paver:

Preparation tools
Before the day you begin your paver installation, arrange to hire a brick masonry saw and flat plate vibrator! Some basic working tools such as carpenter level, tape measure, rubber mallet, rake, shovel, timber stakes, string line, broom, safety eyewear, 1 x 10 foot length, and 2 x 1 inch diameter piping lengths are needed.Fort Worth Paver Installation has some nice tips on this.

Site Preparedness

The most significant single step of the entire pavement construction appears to be the subsoil and paver bed planning. The cumulative performance of the pavement structure relies on the adequate planning and alignment of the subsoil and base materials.

Mark the region to be built by putting wooden stakes around the field and then spray aerosol paint to mark the region to be excavated.

Set the grade rates by placing a line of string between the stakes, making sure to slope the grade away from some foundation. This will ensure that rainfall drainage does not infiltrate into any adjacent building structures. For every eight feet of pavement length set the grade at two inches in height.

Excavate Location

Now excavate the top soil and subsoil with the shovel and to a depth of at least 10 inches in total inside the staked out field. This will allow a base material of five inches to be placed at the bottom of the excavated trench, next will be one and a half inches of setting sand to be placed on top of the base material and then allow for three and a half inches to be placed on top of the setting sand for the thickness of the clay brick paver.

Base Material Compact
Compact the bottom of the trench with the vibrator plate machine to form a firm basis for the base materials. Put 3/4 inch quarry gravel as the base material and compress it again with the vibrator plate system to have a stable foundation for the settling sand to settle over it.

Laying down sand
Place the 2 tubing lengths 8 feet apart and parallel to one another. Place the sand between the two lengths, at a height of one and a half inches. Instead use the wooden range of 2×4, making sure the sand even down. If you see some low spots add more air. Make sure that any high sand spots are leveling out too. When you’ve done leveling the sand make sure you DO NOT COMPACT THE SAND-as you ‘ll later compact the bedding sand with the clay brick pavers while using the vibrator in the final stages of the setup. The final compaction of the pavers and bedding sand is needed to allow the proper method of interlocking to take effect. That is the reason for the power of the interlocking pavement network, since the flow of the sand through the bottom and between the clay paver joints allows them bind together tightly and bear the loads attached to the clay brick pavers in synchronization.

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